Ghorepani Mulde Peak Trekking Diary April 2021

As the school holiday approached, my friend Macha and I were eager to venture on another thrilling trekking adventure. After considering different options, we decided on the Ghorepani Mulde Peak Trek in the beautiful Annapurna region. With the weather gradually warming up, we didn’t require extensive preparations for this short trek. Our planned travel dates were set, and we eagerly looked forward to our journey.

However, as the days drew closer, the uncertainty surrounding our trip started to mount due to the rising number of COVID-19 cases in Kathmandu and throughout the country. Keeping a close eye on the news, I tried to grasp the evolving situation of the pandemic. Until just two days before our departure, there was no news of a lockdown, bringing a sigh of relief as I gathered all the necessary documents and prepared for the trip. I advised Macha to be ready as well, but a late-night update changed everything.

News broke that the CCMC (Crisis Management Committee) had granted district officers the authority to enforce a lockdown. According to their instructions, a lockdown could be implemented if daily new COVID-19 cases exceeded 500 in the city and 250 in urban areas. With Kathmandu already witnessing over 1,000 new cases each day, it was inevitable that a lockdown was imminent. The developing condition left me in a state of confusion. How should I handle the situation and explain it to Macha?

Around 8:30 PM, my wife returned home after closing her shop. We discussed the developing circumstances at length and decided to communicate with Macha. However, she was offline, and I assumed she was asleep. I texted her on Messenger, WhatsApp, and phone, mentioning the developing situation and our plan to meet 15 minutes earlier than scheduled. I requested her to be ready, emphasizing the need to discuss whether to go on the trek or not. Then I also went to sleep…….

Kathmandu to Tirkhedhunga (1540 m.)
Date: 26-April-2021

I woke up refreshed after a good night’s sleep, my excitement building for the trekking adventure ahead. The previous night, Macha had messaged me seeking advice. I assured her that we would discuss it in person. With all my essentials packed, I got ready for the journey.

At about 5:45 AM, I left my apartment and found my neighbor Prem Bhai ready with the car. Lok Tamang, another member of our trip, also arrived there. Quickly, we loaded our stuff into the car and drove to Macha’s place in Baluwatar. She greeted me warmly, offering me Korean tea as we settled in. Over tea, I explained the situation and discussed the possibilities of the trek. With confidence, I expressed my positive outlook, assuring her that we would return to Kathmandu without major issues. Inspired by my optimism, she declared, “I am ready. Let’s go!”

With the decision made, we drove to Naya Bazaar where the tourist bus park was. After boarding the bus, we patiently awaited our departure. Although we encountered a delay of over 20 minutes at Balaju Chowk to accommodate more passengers, the journey was smooth overall.

The road from Kathmandu to Naubise was congested with heavy traffic, causing a delay of over an hour. However, once we passed Naubise, the bus gained speed. We were driving through the scenic river valley. Both sides of the Trisuli and Marsyangdi river valleys had amazing scenery. We kept looking out from the window and enjoying the view. The bus stopped at Sital Bazaar for lunch. The restaurant was clean, likely designed for tourist bus passengers. We ate a generous portion of Dal Bhat Tarkari, a traditional Nepali meal.

As we continued our journey along the Prithvi Highway, the traffic was lighter, and the road conditions improved. We made a brief stop along the way for a drink and to use the restroom. The bus dropped us off near the Tourist Bus Park in Pokhara. Rudra Shrestha dai, my trusted taxi driver in Pokhara, was waiting for us there. We got into the taxi, bound for Nayapul.

The road from Pokhara to Nayapul-Baglung had undergone significant improvements. What was once a bumpy, single-lane road plagued with potholes now boasted a smooth double-lane stretch. Along the way, we stopped briefly at Kande for a mid-afternoon snack and drinks. Our next stop was Nayapul, where our jeep and driver, Saila Dai, awaited us. With heartfelt gratitude, we said goodbye to Rudra Shrestha. The small car was impossible to drive on a bumpy off-road. Due to road conditions, we had to change the transfer. We got into the jeep and continued our journey on about a 14-kilometer rough dirt road along Bhurungdi Khola.

By around 5:30 PM, we arrived in Tirkhedhunga, our destination for the day. The usually bustling town was surprisingly quiet, with most lodges closed. We found accommodation at Laxmi Guest House and Restaurant, where we enjoyed a delectable Dal Bhat meal complemented by Ningro, a fern harvested from the nearby forest, and local Potato Curry.

Tirkhedhunga to Ghorepani (2750m.)
Date: 27-April-2021

Today’s journey was a six-hour trek to Ghorepani. We started by crossing the Bhurungdi Khola as soon as we left the Tirkhedhunga village. The path led us uphill, with stone steps guiding our way to the large traditional Magar village of Ulleri. As the path was very steep, it took us about an hour and a half to reach Ulleri. Over the years, many of the beautiful traditional houses in Ulleri had transformed into modern concrete buildings. Unfortunately, the weather didn’t cooperate, and the mist obscured our view of the majestic Mt. Annapurna South and Hiuchuli just below Ulleri.

As we continued, the gradual path led us toward Ghorepani, but the sun grew stronger, making us hot and sweaty. Despite the challenging weather, the wider views and breathtaking scenery kept us motivated. Along the path, we noticed numerous new lodges built, but they remained closed or empty due to the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic. It felt unusual to walk along this path with so few fellow trekkers and traders.

We took a refreshing tea break at Banthati and then steadily climbed uphill. We encountered a beautiful forest adorned with Rhododendrons, Pine, and Oak trees. The melodious songs of birds accompanied us, creating an unforgettable ambiance. When we reached Nagithati, we stopped at the last lodge, where a lady with a baby kindly cooked Dal Bhat Tarkari for us. It was the only food available on the menu, but it turned out to be a delicious choice.
Continuing our trek through the Rhododendron forest for another one and a half hours, we reached Ghorepani. Along the way, we glimpsed Rhododendron and Magnolia flowers as we ascended higher. Upon arriving at Ghorepani around 3 pm, we were greeted by cloudy weather, gentle thunder, and a sprinkle of rain. At the lodge, we met two French couples who were gathered around the chimney, enjoying Jhwaikhatte (local spirit) and some popcorn. We enjoyed a wonderful evening……

Ghorepani to Dobato (3465m.)
Date: 28-April-2021

We woke up very early in the morning, filled with excitement, and gathered in the dining room at 4:30 AM, ready for our climb up Poonhill. With flashlights in hand, we began to climb, following recently repaired stone steps. After a challenging 45-minute ascent, we finally reached the summit of Poonhill, and as we arrived, the sun began to emerge on the horizon. Despite the misty sky, it was clearer than the previous day, allowing us to witness the majestic Dhaulagiri and Annapurna mountain ranges. The atmosphere at the top of Poonhill was magical, and quite a few visitors joined us today. With that morning glory, we captured the breathtaking views in numerous photographs and videos. After spending about an hour there, we descended to our lodge, where we enjoyed a delicious breakfast, packed our belongings, and set off for Dobato at 8:15 am.

Leaving Ghorepani behind, we started to ascend through the enchanting Rhododendron forest, heading towards Deurali Pass. As we ascended to altitudes of over 2,700 meters, the landscape came alive with vibrant blossoms of Rhododendrons and other wildflowers. Today was truly a day of blooming beauty. To reach the same height as Poonhill, we followed stone steps, traversing open meadows, forests of Pine and Mountain Bamboo, and immersing ourselves in the awe-inspiring views. A short descent brought us to Deurali, where Lok and I had a bowl of noodles at a shop, while Macha refreshed herself with a fruit juice. We also grabbed some boiled eggs and biscuits for the trail, ensuring we had enough energy for the journey ahead.

Leaving the main trekking path behind, we ventured east towards Mulde Peak. The trail initially followed a narrow ridge, taking us uphill, downhill, and across level stretches. Along the way, we were surrounded by countless blooming Rhododendrons, and I couldn’t resist capturing the beauty with my camera. After a long climb, we reached the top of the ridge, where a breathtaking valley view unfolded before us. As the weather turned cloudy and distant thunder rumbled, we took a moment to appreciate the scene before continuing towards our destination for the day, Dobato.

Leaving the forest below, we followed an open grassy ridge, relishing the gradual ascent and a brief descent. The panoramic vista of the forest below and the rolling grassy hills were truly magnificent. Instead of attempting to scale Mulde Peak, we descended directly to Dobato, just as the rain began to fall. After a refreshing shower, the weather cleared, revealing the snow-dusted peaks of Mt. South Annapurna, Hiuchuli, and Machhapuchhre. The evening sky was painted with an enchanting glow, creating a magical ambiance that left us in awe.

Dobato to Tadapani (2590m.)
Date: 29-April-2021

Rising early, we ascended Mulde Peak (3637m). Within just half an hour of climbing, we reached the top of the peak. The view from Mulde Peak was simply breathtaking, offering a panoramic display of nature’s marvels. Mt. Dhaulagiri, Tukuche Peak, Annapurna Flank, Annapurna South, Hiuchuli, Machhapuchhre, and Lamjung Himal stood before us, their beauty enhanced by the clear morning sky and a mesmerizing sunrise. We took lots of photos and recorded videos. We appreciated the beauty of nature and blended our happiness with the pleasing atmosphere.

After a leisurely breakfast, we packed our bags, anticipating a relaxed day ahead. Our journey took us downhill to Tadapani, a half-day trek. Amidst the mystical Rhododendron, Oak, and Pine forests, adorned with hanging vines and surrounded by clouds and huge boulders, we felt transported to the world of the Jungle Book. At one point, we even caught sight of a group of Langur Monkeys swinging through the treetops. Arriving in Tadapani just before the rain showered upon us, we sought refuge in the lodge.

Later in the day, Lok Bhai and the lodge’s assistant cook ventured into the village to purchase chicken for our dinner. Meanwhile, my mind dwelled on the journey back to Kathmandu. Constantly in touch with friends and my wife, I collected information on the developing situation. With the capital city of Kathmandu under lockdown, public and private transportation came to a standstill. Fortunately, air services remained operational. After exploring various options, I decided to book a plane ticket, finding it more cost-effective than a car. I arranged for a pickup from Ghandruk tomorrow afternoon and contacted Rudra Dai in Pokhara to assist us. Now, as I unwind and prepare for a good night’s sleep, I feel relieved, knowing our return journey is set…….

Tadapani-Ghandruk-Pokhara (820m.)
Date: 30-April-2021

Our final day of the trek greeted us with a leisurely start, waking up a bit late around 6:30 am. It was a shorter day of trekking, taking only about three and a half hours to reach Ghandruk. After a delightful breakfast at 7:30 am, we set off on our journey. The path continued its gradual descent, much like the previous day, leading us through the peaceful forest. The beauty of the forest was unmatched, with birds singing along the way. As we descended to lower altitudes, the vegetation changed, providing a captivating change of scenery. The descent was gentle, not too steep, making for an enjoyable walk. In approximately three hours, we arrived at Ghandruk.

Ghandruk village possessed a distinctive charm in the past. Its stone-paved clean alleys and traditional houses were testaments to the rich architectural heritage and creativity of the Gurung people. The village used to draw thousands of foreign tourists, eager to witness the traditional Gurung culture and experience the hospitality of this remarkable old-style village. However, in less than a few years, significant changes had taken place. Traditional houses were being replaced by concrete building Lodges, and the once pristine alleys now bore the weight of pollution. The village had lost its charm, becoming overcrowded with local tourists and plagued by late-night parties and noise pollution, which discouraged me from staying there.

During our visit, we had the best Dal Bhat of our entire trip, complemented by fresh Sukuti, a half-dry meat delicacy. We stumbled upon a wedding celebration in the village, initially assuming it to be a Gurung wedding, but it turned out to be Bisshokarma’s wedding instead. Although we didn’t have much time to witness the complete ritual, we paused briefly at the wedding venue on our descent and delighted in the lively dance. From Ghandruk, it was an easy trek to Kimche, followed by a scenic drive to Pokhara.

Upon reaching Pokhara, we checked into Hotel Mount View before 3 o’clock. Macha, unsurprisingly, had secured the best room, while Lok and I were pleasantly surprised by the quality of our room at an incredibly affordable price. In the afternoon, we strolled to the Lakeside area. The once bustling street now appeared deserted, with most shops closed and few people in sight. Nonetheless, we spent a good time along the Lakeside, taking in the pleasant atmosphere before returning to the hotel. Unfortunately, all the restaurants and bars we encountered only offered takeaway service, so we had our drinks and meals at the hotel…………

Pokhara-Kathmandu (1300m.)
Date: 1-May-2021

Today, my day began early with a morning walk before catching a 10:30 am flight. The delicious breakfast was the highlight, with a vast spread of mouth-watering dishes. We arrived at the airport early and went through security with our face shields on. The airport was quiet with fewer crowds. After waiting for a short while, we boarded our flight to Kathmandu. The flight was smooth, and we got home without any difficulties. Happy Trekking and a Happy Ending…….

Thank you for taking the time to read this article. I hope you found it informative and that you’ll consider visiting this spectacular place in the future. If you’re planning a trek to Ghorepani Poon Hill Trek or Mulde Peak Trek and need assistance, please don’t hesitate to contact me, Ambar Tamang, at Blossom Expeditions.

Written By: Ambar Tamang
Founder/Guide: Blossom Expeditions
P. O. Box No: 21101, Kapan-12, Kathmandu, Nepal.
Telephone: 977-01-4810388
Mobile: 977-9851123762
WhatsApp/Viber: 977-9841454462
ambartg@yahoo.com
blossomexpeditions@gmail.com
www.blossomexpeditions.com

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